In Season: Autumn 2019
Black pine. Matsutake. Satsuma. These are just a few of the ingredients chefs are using on their menus to showcase the best of fall. We’ve documented some of this season’s most delicious offerings all across the country.
Discover, explore, get inspired. This is In Season.
“It turns out that foie gras and lobster are really good friends,” says executive chef Ryan Pfeiffer. At Blackbird, he’s poaching foie gras in lobster stock, then topping this luxury dish with thinly-shaved matsutakes, aka pine mushrooms. This elusive species of mushroom is known for its strong aroma and unusually spicy taste.
At the Nordic-inspired Aska, chef Fredrik Berselius is currently using black pine on his tasting menu. The team hand-collects it in the Catskills region of upstate New York, Berselius preserves it, then uses it to season razor clams. Pictured is a dish of sweet razor clam with preserved black pine, reduced cucumber juice, and chilled razor clam stock.
Black Mission Figs
Black mission figs are known for their honey-like sweetness and seedy texture. At Saison, chef Laurent Gras roasts them over the fire, allowing the fruit to lightly smoke over fig leaf. They’re presented in the dining room over hot embers, then sliced tableside for dessert with fig leaf ice cream, frozen port, and olive oil.
Spoon and Stable
The Koginut squash (aka Dan Barber’s custom squash) has the smooth texture of a Japanese kabocha squash and the rich flavor of a butternut squash. At Spoon and Stable, chef Gavin Kaysen roasts this delicious hybrid and serves it with housemade cappelletti, brown butter, sage, and Pleasant Ridge grande reserve cheese.
“Dan (of Black Locust Farms) grows some of the best chicories I have ever had,” says chef Katy Millard. She uses the frisée, which grows on the chicory plant, for a spin on a Lyonnaise salad. This one has carrots, lardo, walnuts, benne, mimolette, and red wine vinaigrette.
Mosquito Supper Club
Juicy and sweet, satsumas are part of the Mandarin orange family, and are at their best between October–December. Pictured is a satsuma tree on the bayou in Chauvin, courtesy of chef Melissa Martin. At Mosquito Supper Club, Martin tells a story about life on the bayou. You might find yourself sipping a satsumacello, the southern take on a limoncello, or finishing your meal with a satsuma sabayon.