Front Row Dining

Fenton and his team nixtamalize corn to make fresh tortillas for daintily garnished empanadas, tostadas, and quesadillas. Aguachile and ravioli flavored with huitlacoche, or sweet corn and truffle, are signature dishes, while the beverage list features plenty of agaves and unique Mexican spirits, including Pox and Charanda. Michelada, the classic hangover cure, is reimagined as a raw oyster dressed with tomato dashi mignonette, clamato pearls and beer foam, rimmed with tajin.

For the late night taco omakase. In the spirit of sustainability, Fenton repurposes ingredients from the tasting menu for a second service at a more affordable price point. Sometimes, guest chefs even join in on the fun.

The kaiseki-inspired menu is a progression of cooked and raw courses, including traditional sushi preparations, chawanmushi, and Japanese binchōtan charcoal grilled skewers. There are even a couple of glimpses from the morning bagel shop, like an amuse bouche chip made from dehydrated salmon skin, and binchōtan grilled Colorado lamb dressed with everything spice miso made with seeds from Odell’s bagels. Sushi counter classics like soy-cured chutoro bluefin tuna topped with fresh nori sauce and lightly seared nodoguro are as precise as you’ll find in Japan.

For the free spirited creativity. Have you ever been to a tasting menu in a bagel shop? Odell is serious about his food and changes his hyper seasonal menu weekly, but wants diners to be laughing, asking questions, and having fun. The atmosphere is incredibly laidback for the level of cooking in such an untraditional kitchen.

Expect up to 18 bites over three hours, many of which are likely to showcase different types of uni, or sea urchin. Canapés to begin might include caviar service on okonomiyaki or a wagyu jidori egg jam croustade. Sashimi,  binchōtan charcoal-kissed bites, and seasonally flavored chawanmushi lead to the main event: nigiri. All the fish is dry-aged and there’s always a great hand-roll at the end, plus refreshing homemade ice cream for dessert.

For the impressive dry-aging techniques. It really sets Friends Only apart from other sushi counters, coaxing a more tender texture and deeper umami flavors. Who knew bluefin tuna belly could melt in your mouth like a stick of fish butter? 

The menu changes every few weeks, and some dishes are shared family-style while others are individually plated. French, Italian, and Jewish influences permeate her food, but every dish is a Shulman original. Recent dishes include pork and prune terrine, leek agnolotti, cheese soufflés, and a grapefruit Jell-o parfait for dessert. The final bite—a warm sourdough chocolate chip cookie hot from the oven is always on the menu.

For the dinner party experience. When you want to skip the pomp and circumstance of fine dining, but still want great food, this is your spot. The welcoming, fun service even coaxes introverts out of their shells and turns strangers into friends.

Pasta is made fresh each morning, with about nine varieties on the menu at any given time. Expect classics, like rigatoni bolognese and spaghetti aglio e olio, as well as more inventive flavor combinations, like pillowy potato gnocchi cooked with soy and dashi braised beef short rib and fermented spring onion. Snag your favorite, along with jars of sauces from the fresh pasta case on your way out. 

For the weekly ‘No Decision Sunday’ offering in which Chef Poli serves an improvisational menu exclusively at the counter. For $145 per couple, you get two apps, three pastas, dessert, and a bottle of wine for an incredible value. “We have a dialed in clientele that wants to sit here, so they’re super open to being challenged,” Poli says. “It’s an amazing vibe and a great chance for us to try new dishes.”

Chef Odo strictly adheres to kaiseki ryori standards at his eponymous restaurant, with each course showcasing a different cooking method, from otsukuri sashimi and owan (warm soup) to yakimono (grilled) and takiawase (simmered). Odo previously received a MICHELIN star at Kajitsu for his vegan Buddhist cooking, so he knows how to let the delicate flavors of vegetables shine. Chef Odo also enjoys introducing ingredients from his hometown in the Kyushu region, like horse mackerel and sardines.

For the zen vibes. This is the closest approximation you’ll find to traditional Japanese kaiseki in the United States and the carefully orchestrated meal is a meditative atmosphere with quietly attentive service. With no music, your attention is squarely on the food.

Dinner begins in a most dangerous fashion with house sourdough and cultured butter. Beware of eating too much bread (easier said than done) since there are plenty more carbs to come. Fresh made pasta dishes are a standout, with unexpected combinations like scallop and mango mezzaluna.

For the desserts by the incredibly talented Chef Kallas-Lee. We’re dreaming about her smoked and roasted banana ice cream sandwiched between brown butter brioche cookies and topped with osetra caviar.

Crowd favorites include drunken duck noodles and truffle dumplings, filled with edamame and topped with corn espuma. To share with the table: a whole crispy branzino served with crab butter, Hong Kong sweet chili sauce, and braised Napa cabbage.

For the selection of sauces, all of which Cheung makes in house, including tamari, ginger scallion, XO, Hong Kong sweet chili, and chili oil, the latter of which is available by the jar to take home.

Pristine seasonal Japanese seafood plays a starring role, from Hokkaido uni served in its shell to firefly squid, while classical French sauces, including vin blanc, bring Shimano’s food to life. The one dish that never leaves the menu? Canard en croûte—layers of 45-day dry-aged duck breast, foie gras, minced duck leg, mushroom, and spinach wrapped and cooked in artfully adorned puff pastry. After such a rich crescendo, desserts are light and ethereal.

For the dramatic presentation. Courses like veal, baked with thyme and sage, and Shimano’s signature duck en croûte are proudly presented before they are sliced and plated. Shimano and his team happily answer questions and explain the method of preparation to curious diners.

Dinner often begins with a fresh oyster before moving into a progression of seasonal nigiri, all with fish flown in from Japan, including fleeting seasonal specialties like Hadate purple sea urchin from Hokkaido and a signature trio of wild line caught bluefin: akami zuke, chu-toro and o-toro. Japanese binchōtan charcoal-grilled eel topped with caviar is another signature piece. The 18-course omakase offers a generous amount of food, but you can request seconds of any favorite bites at the end too. The team remembers faces, names, and your favorite courses for next time.

For the artistic touch. Enter through a gallery showcasing rotating works from various Japanese artists, such as Shikki Lacquerware. It’s worth arriving early to appreciate the art.