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To Be Wild

While primitive cooking once satisfied our need to survive, modern dining has come a long way from humanity’s early hunter-gatherer roots—or has it?

 

From lunar cycles to crackling fires, these are the chefs and winemakers that heed the call of the wild.

Explore the wild
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Image of a carrot and fish sharing a meal of squid ink pasta underwater in a kelp forest.
Image of a carrot and fish sharing a meal of squid ink pasta underwater in a kelp forest.
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While primitive cooking once satisfied our need to survive, modern dining has come a long way from humanity’s early hunter-gatherer roots—or has it?

 

From lunar cycles to crackling fires, these are the chefs and winemakers that heed the call of the wild.

Broth being poured into bowl with mushrooms and chives
Chef counter at Meju
Plated Amberjack sashimi dish
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Meju

Long Island City, NY

  • New York

The concept

Across the East River from Manhattan, Long Island City is known for its affinity for culture and diverse population, including a significant number of Asian residents and businesses. It’s fitting then, after making history at Danji—the first Korean restaurant awarded a MICHELIN star—Chef Hooni Kim chose this Queens neighborhood for Meju, his intimate eight-seat counter restaurant. Named for the dried soybeans used in the fermentation of jangs (traditional Korean seasoning pastes), Meju begins every dish with this integral ingredient.

While only 500 steps from views of the Manhattan skyline, entering 49th Street’s Little Banchan Shop feels worlds away. Browse shelves stocked with milk bread, kimchi, crispy skin fish chips, and make a mental note to return for a bottle of bibimbap sauce. Finally, it’s time to enter yet another world: the minimalist Meju, located behind the shop. Here, those same ingredients are transformed into dazzling renditions of Korean food—a showcase of wild fermentation, plated on handmade clay service pieces—that will forever change your brain chemistry.

As an homage to his family’s traditions, Kim prepares the all-natural jangs, along with jeotgal and kimchi—a true culmination of his personal and professional history, as well as his culinary prowess.

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Plated dishes that resemble flowers
Chef Roberto Alcocer plating a dish with tweezers
Empty booth table at Valle
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Valle

Oceanside, CA

The concept

The in-crowd already knows Mexico’s vibrant Valle de Guadalupe is having a major moment. Ninety miles south of San Diego, the destination is sought after for its picturesque vineyards and artistic atmosphere, where freedom of expression is highly encouraged. But thanks to Chef Roberto Alcocer’s ash-cooking techniques at his MICHELIN-starred Valle, diners can experience the valley’s flavors without crossing the border. The tasting menus are casually elegant—a tribute to both California’s bounty and the dynamic vino paired with it.

You settle in at the chef’s table in the heart of the kitchen. Your hair is windswept with ocean spray from your pre-dinner stroll on the pier, but you don’t bother adjusting. Meanwhile, smoky moles arrive on plates crafted from the region’s clay. In between bites of the charred onion tart and sips of a Nebbiolo blend, you pause to take in the earthy smell of burning wood.

According to Observer, connecting with Oceanside’s food suppliers is a top priority for Alcocer, a farmers’ market regular. The chef even forged a partnership with Harbor Pelican Fish Market after a chance encounter at the pier, ensuring the freshest, seasonal catches.

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Hand holding crab leg over bowl of gumbo

Photo by Denny Culbert

Chef Melissa Martin fly fishing

Photo by Denny Culbert

Fried fish collar dish being held on an ornate plate

Photo by Denny Culbert

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Mosquito Supper Club

New Orleans, LA

The concept

What started over a decade ago as a family-style supper club celebrating Cajun fare has evolved into a cultural phenomenon, complete with a James Beard Award®, two cookbooks, and countless crawfish. With an emphasis on sustainability, Chef/Owner Melissa Martin procures the best possible ingredients from Louisiana fishermen, crabbers, shrimpers, and farmers.

Designed for those who are socially and culinarily adventurous, Mosquito Supper Club is likened to an old-fashioned house party. Come prepared not only to eat well, but also to make new friends. True extroverts arrive early to sit in the courtyard for a refreshing cocktail and a dozen ice-cold oysters on the half shell—both mandatory for staying cool in New Orleans’ tropical climate.

The bayou mindset extends beyond the food on the plate. By choosing to dine at Mosquito Supper Club, guests are supporting the preservation of local foodways and keeping the Gulf Coast wild. Martin has also been a leader in hurricane relief efforts by setting up stations to cook hot meals during recovery and establishing a “Bayou Fund,” which raised more than $665,500 to help affected communities.

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Chefs counter at Beckon

Beautifully meat dish plated on speckle glazed pottery
Bowl of white liquid with dollop of caviar
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Beckon

Denver, CO

The concept

The moon controls ocean tides and stabilizes the Earth’s axis. At Beckon, the satellite gets its due. Executive Chef Duncan Holmes presents one prix-fixe experience nightly, where earthy vegetables shine brightly in 11 dynamic courses paced across two-and-a-half hours. With thematic menus inspired by moon cycles, like summer’s Strawberry Moon or fall’s Harvest Moon, the dishes ebb and flow with the lunar calendar.

As the sun sets over Denver, it’s the moon’s turn to rule the night sky. It’s time for the first course: antelope broth with fragrant ginger and thyme. The steady rhythm of plates continues, putting you in a hypnotic-like trance of leeks, daikon, and truffles. Before you know it, the final course hits the table. One thing is for sure: Beckon will pull you back.

In addition to a bar director and two lead sommeliers, Beckon boasts an expert dedicated solely to the restaurant’s nonalcoholic beverage program: Chef Peter Briggs, who mixes herbs, teas, mirin, and more into alchemy. After dining at Beckon last fall, the Beyond Beurre Blanc Substack called him a “genius” and begged all chefs who care about N/A drinks to send their staff to Beckon for research and development.

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Yogurt custard dish at The Wild

Photo by Joseph Weaver

Marc Zimmerman and Peggy Tan cooking

Photo by Joseph Weaver

Poached pacific halibut dish at The Wild

Photo by Joseph Weaver

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The Wild

San Francisco, CA

The concept

A crackling, live fire hearth anchors the open kitchen at The Wild, led by Chef/Owner Marc Zimmerman and Chef de Cuisine Peggy Tan. Rooted in Northern California’s ever-changing ecosystem, every dinner service offers an à la carte or chef’s choice, five-course menu designed to showcase the region’s rich bounty. Guests cozy into the dining room, then travel along the Pacific coastline, from the tide pools to the rugged mountains to the alpine meadows.

While San Francisco’s gray fog rolls in off the ocean and hangs over the city, you take a seat close enough to smell the wood burning. A glass of whiskey arrives, and with the first warming sip, you embark on a chef-led journey complete with spirit pairings. The couple to your left is digging into Sonoma duck confit and sea urchin noodles; on your right, you catch a glimpse of the artful California Dungeness crab with cucumber, myoga, and caviar.

After working in Japan and Singapore, respectively, Zimmerman and Tan combine their global perspectives at The Wild. “Simplicity in approach and intent are two main factors that are emphasized in the work we do,” Zimmerman told Forbes.

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Hands pressing dough into pie dish
Red and white plated dish on ornate blue and white China plate
Map of Minnesota with locations of farms that Myriel sources ingredients from
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Myriel

Saint Paul, MN

The concept

Being a chef is just one of Karyn Tomlinson’s many talents. She is also a collector of vintage china and a watercolor artist, painting lush landscapes. When she isn’t wielding a knife or a brush, she forages for ramps, wild ginger, and fiddleheads. She even worked stints in pastry abroad in Sweden before opening Myriel in St. Paul’s Highland Park neighborhood, where she combines all of her artful endeavors under one roof.

Pulling off a beanie and scarf, you settle into the warm ambiance of Myriel’s dining room as a light snow begins falling outside the frosted windows. Legumes, plated elegantly on Churchill’s blue-and-white Finlandia, appear on the table, wafting the scent of toasted mustard seed. After the cassoulet, you fear you won’t have an appetite left for pie. Miraculously, you make room.

Midwesterners are known for being nice, and rightly so. They’re also strong, hearty people who endure brutal winters. Don’t be fooled by Tomlinson’s petite stature or affinity for dainty objects; she is undeniably tough. She’s the first woman to win the national Cochon 555 hog butchery competition, and Myriel exclusively does whole-animal butchery in partnership with small farms.

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Empty interior dining room at January
Kitchen with cook prepping in background
Red wine being poured into glass
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January

Franklin, TN

The concept

Rolling hills, sprawling across 300 idyllic acres in Middle Tennessee, set the stage for January, part of Southall Farm and Inn. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the land that sustainably grows much of the restaurant’s food from seeds. Led by Chefs Andrew Klamar and Nate Leonard, the mindful menu changes daily based on availability.

With the first bite of the Parker House Rolls smeared with Southall honey butter, you are reminded of an enlightening conversation with the beekeeper at the apiary yesterday. You will never see bees the same ever again, and perhaps now have a new theory for how Dolly Parton got to be so sweet.

The immersive, seed-to-fork dining experience at January never gets stale, as the ever-evolving menu promises a novel and unexpected meal with each visit. Every season welcomes new surprises; don’t miss the arrival of crisp, sun-ripened apples from the onsite orchard in late summer and early fall.

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David Drummond in the vineyard
Set table at Idelwild Wines with blurred animal art and decor in background
Charcuterie plate next to bottle of Idlewild wine
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Idlewild Wines

Healdsburg, CA

The concept

Housed in a historic former winery in downtown Healdsburg, Idlewild Wines’ tasting room is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Through guided tastings, guests learn about holistic farming, minimalist winemaking techniques, and Italy’s Piedmont grape varieties that thrive in the elevation of California’s Russian River Valley and Mendocino County. Each wine is unique, Idlewild promises, and therefore treated as such.

If the wine industry is waning among millennials and Gen Z, no one told the crowd inside Idlewild. Even the sign outside looks more akin to a hip coffee shop or cocktail bar rather than a vineyard’s traditional tasting room. You go for the Grignolino, a rarity that Sonoma Magazine describes as “deep salmon-colored red wine that brims with more tannins than you’d expect from its naturally paler hue, and delicate flavors of rose, sage, white peppercorn and strawberry.” A plate of cheese, salumi, and conservas is on the way. Life is good.

Since Idlewild founder, the Sonoma County native and fourth-generation winemaker Sam Bilbro, released his Timorasso in 2022—the first ever made outside of Italy—he has helped introduce a new generation to a grape that nearly disappeared in the 1980s.

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Edible flowers being plated on dish with tweezers
Nori and carrot tart dish at MÄS
Small bites plated on bed of moss
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MÄS

Ashland, OR

The concept

Just above the California border, this South Oregon restaurant by Chef Josh Dorack celebrates Cascadian cuisine. After growing from a pop-up into a James Beard Award® finalist three years running, his efforts to elevate the region’s natural beauty—foraged sea lettuces, Pacific Rogue Wagyu, Myrtle Creek lamb, and fresh radishes from his garden—have not gone unnoticed. With a menu that changes constantly, diners flock to Ashland for seats at the chef’s counter. According to Eater, MÄS is “without a doubt, one of the finest restaurants in the state,” making it well worth the trip.

Between bites of the uni course and the chawanmushi—miso-soba custard with morel, daikon, and salmon roe—Dorack shares stories from his travels to Tokyo, where he encountered nano restaurants and omakase service that fed the inspiration behind his business model. You wash it all down with sake that is curated with each course.

MÄS takes pride in its kind staff and down-to-earth hospitality; there’s a real familial feeling here. Related, Dorack’s wife, the photographer Lindsey Bolling, has documented the restaurant’s growth while also raising their three sons.

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Pâté en croûte with fresh herbs and quenelle of mustard seed
Seared foie gras dish on large white plate with pattern of holes
Spotted Dick dessert with Galangal Custard being poured on top
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Beast & Cleaver

Seattle, WA

The concept

As the name suggests, Beast & Cleaver is an artisanal butcher shop by day, where whole animals from local, organic farms are broken down into prime cuts of meat. By night, however, the shop switches gears into The Peasant, where Chef/Owner Kevin Smith serves five set courses at communal tables. On weekends, he offers an à la carte steakhouse experience, dubbed “The Beastro,” with steaks cooked to order, plus housemade charcuterie, salads, small plates, desserts, and beer or wine by the glass or bottle.

“Eating here feels like sneaking into a museum to have a sleepover, only the display cases here showcase your prospective dinner instead of fossilized pterodactyl tracks,” says Aimee Rizzo, a Seattle-based writer for The Infatuation. “You get to sit catty-corner to their selection of raw links, patties, and chops while cradling a glass of German weissburgunder trocken and snacking on pâté en croûte.”

Beast & Cleaver also hosts hands-on classes, where Smith teaches students how to select and cook the perfect cut for any occasion—whether it’s a weeknight or a holiday. In these intimate workshops, Smith helps diners taste the differences between value cuts and indulgent splurges.

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Words by Colleen McNally Arnett

Colleen is an Atlanta-raised writer now based on the Georgia coast. Her work has appeared in Eater, Garden & Gun, Men’s Journal, Plate, VinePair, and more.

Illustration by Marija Tiurina

Marija Tiurina is a multidisciplinary artist from Lithuania, currently juggling an array of projects ranging from surreal watercolor paintings to digital illustration and visual storytelling, occasionally painting large murals around the world.

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